Hearts and Arrows!, it sounds very much like ‘cupid’ discovered one of the perfect ways to cut diamonds?, well not exactly, it was in fact the Japanese during the eighties who started using a ‘kaleidoscope’ to view a range of diamonds. Although the Ideal – Super Ideal cut diamonds weren’t yet being seen until the some years later when the perfect symmetry was established and the phenomenon ‘Hearts & Arrows’ became known.
It wasn’t until the early 90’s when diamonds with H&A cuts infiltrated into the United States. Time after time the presence of the hearts and arrows pattern maybe taken as confirmation that the diamond is well cut. Even though the heart pattern is invisible once the diamond is set and often hard to see under normal lighting. This is not necessarily true. In a round brilliant cut diamond, a clearly defined set of eight hearts viewed through the pavilion and eight arrows through the crown is likely to be a sign of an excellent symmetry. As we know, when diamonds are graded one of the major significant elements in their grading is ‘cut’. Even with the Hearts and Arrows its appearance is a very likely an indication of an Ideal cut, but it is not a guarantee.
When consumers are looking for diamonds for sale they are sometimes misled regarding the quality of a hearts and arrows pattern. While a diamond could possibly display what appears to be a pronounced hearts and arrows, several subtle details in the shape, spacing of the facets, and positioning of the culet can have a significant effect on the diamonds overall finished look and therefore its overall value.
Occasionally these differences may not be detected by any graders or jewelers. Where possible always look for diamonds where you can view at least two to three different grading tools, eg: ‘ASET’ tool, ‘Ideal Scope’, ‘H&A’ viewer. Caution should be utilised when buying a diamond with this type of laboratory test on its own. See example below. Symmetry is VITAL for your Diamond to perform!!!
A recent find (pictured right) from one of Brian Gavin Signature Blue Diamonds this Round Brilliant Cut Diamond is displaying excellent Hearts and Arrows along with a strong BLUE Fluorescence.
Make sure you read my article on why buying a diamond with ‘Fluorescence’ can save you money.